25 Şubat 2025 Salı

Ioniq 6 FAQ

IONIQ 6 Frequently Asked Questions and Answers




 

Contents

First of all, for my radio amateur friends who will ask where this ioniq 6 article came from in all these amateur radio articles, let me share the detail on the steering wheel of the Ioniq 6.


Pay attention to the Hyundai logo ;)


For those who don't know, four dots correspond to the letter H in Morse code.

Also, for those wondering what amateur radio is,   I recommend reading the article "What is Amateur Radio? "


Hello, I have been an Ioniq 6 user for about 6 months.


During this period, I learned a lot of information myself, and especially when I saw questions from people who were using electric cars for the first time and were inexperienced about electricity, batteries, etc., I decided to create a source of information that would at least guide the beginners.

Although the headings here are generally within the scope of Ioniq6 and Ioniq 5, they are generally valid for all EV vehicles.


Let me write my first advice like this... The paint on our vehicles is very thin...PPF coatingIt's highly recommended that you get it done. If you're wondering what to do or which PPF to get, I suggest you read other resources. That's a topic that needs to be addressed separately . 


I wanted to write about a topic even more important than the PPF. There are other details below, and it might seem repetitive, but since it's a life-threatening topic, it deserves a separate post.

If you're not an electrical expert, definitely seek professional help when charging your car from home. Don't worry about plugging in an extension cord, thinking, "I won't have to install a separate wiring system."

First of all, especially if you intend to charge your charger by connecting it directly to the home socket or with an extension cord, the resistance of the installation from the moment the electricity first enters the meter in the house to the moment it leaves the socket is much more critical than the extension cord you buy/have made.

The cable drawn from the transformer center to the entrance of your house is in accordance with the standards.It is made of 4-6mm2 cable for 220V systems..380V three-phaseIf you have a connection, it should be made with a 6-10mm2 cable. However, confirmation from an electrician is essential.

We've moved from our meter to our fuse box. These fuses are generally divided into different sub-lines for different areas of the house, lighting, or outlets within these areas. These divisions are called lines. The critical point here is which line is the outlet you connect your car charger to? Are other high-powered electrical appliances in your home (oven, washing machine, toaster, kettle, etc.) connected to the same line or circuit breaker? If so, it's important to assign a separate line to the outlet you'll use for charging. 

It is important that the fuse value connected to this socket is suitable for your charging needs.

It's important that the cable from the fuse to the outlet you'll be using has the required radius (for example, 2.5mm2 cable can carry up to 16A of current), and that the junction box connections comply with these standards. A loose connection can cause overheating during the 6-8 hour charging period and could cause a fire.

It is important that the extension cable you use has the required diameter, and if it is a cable that can be wound onto a reel, it is important that it is completely unrolled and used flat.

It is important that socket connections are made with high-quality socket brands and that the connections are tightened very well.

If you intend to provide 7kW charging power in your single-phase home, you should definitely draw a separate line from the fuse and it is important that you never use the in-house installation.

After having these issues checked by a good plumber, you can charge without any problems.



I will continue to add to the list as I receive questions from you.

First of all, my car is an Ioniq 6 Progressive. I chose this car and bought it used. I don't think there's any downside to buying used electric vehicles unless they've been in a serious accident. These cars have been on the market for a year. Even if the previous owner charged them to 100% every day and constantly tried to accelerate from 0 to 100 km/h, it's unlikely they would cause any harm. Since any manufacturing defects would have been discovered over time, they could even be considered an advantage.

So why did I buy Progressive and not Advance? (Advance users say they actually have this feature in some of the items below. However, the differences are written this way on the Hyundai website.) 

  • Sunroof: It makes the vehicle quite spacious. 
  • Heated/Cooled Seats: Not available in the Advance series!!!, Progressive has heating including the rear seats, while the front seats also have additional cooling.
  • 360-degree view camera: This is very useful when parking. The side cameras also pop up on the screen when the signal is turned on, allowing you to see behind you without even looking in the mirror.
  • BOSE sound systemMusic in the car is important to me. Especially in such a quiet vehicle, with the double windows down, it provides excellent sound quality for listening to music at home. Furthermore, instead of the 6 speakers in the front, there are 8 speakers, including a subwoofer.
  • V2L adapterI'm not saying that because a V2L adapter can be installed on the Advance series for a few thousand liras.
  • Side Parking Sensor: Progressive has it, but Advance doesn't. Frankly, I didn't see much use for it.
  • Parking Collision and Safe Exit Warnings: If a vehicle is approaching while parking, it warns you by vibrating the steering wheel. It even applies the brakes to stop you unless you disable the option. I never liked the braking part. I turned it off, but I still use vibrations on.
  • Smart Parking Assistant: It helps the vehicle park itself when it finds a suitable parking space. Why would we use it?
  • Moving with the key: Yes. You can move your vehicle back and forth using the key fob to enter and exit a tight parking space. I'll explain how below. 
  • Memory Seat: Isn't this really available in Advance? Why?
  • Seats with a relaxation position: You're parked, waiting for someone inside, or relaxing. You press the button, and the seat moves all the way back to its reclining position. You can also return it to its original position with a single button.
  • Heated Steering Wheel: I mean, I didn't know I needed something like this until I used it. How nice is it in the winter!!!
  • Side mirrors pointing down when reverse parking. Only available on progressives. And for it to be activated, the mirror selection button must be on one of the mirrors (right or left). 

Let me write some technical specifications of the vehicle:

  • ioniq 6 with a single 111 kW motor(Progressive and Advance are sold with the same engine and battery), producing 151 horsepower. And crowning this power with a torque of 350 Newtons. 150 horsepower and 350 newtons of torque are found in many mid-power cars on the market. For example, the Passat TDI 2.0, Ford Focus, Peugeot 3008, Hyundai Tucson. However, the difference is that in internal combustion vehicles (called ICE), maximum torque and horsepower are produced within a certain rpm range due to the torque curve, while in electric vehicles, every speed is available at every rpm. So, if you've driven a vehicle with these powers before, you'll probably be surprised how the nearly 2-ton Ioniq 6 can be so agile with the same power. 
  • Our vehicle has a 53kW battery (50kW usable). While it has a lower capacity than its competitors, it offers greater range thanks to its 0.22 coefficient of drag and advanced regen structure.
  • Speaking of range, that question is a bit ambiguous. Range isn't what it says in the catalog. In other words, it's not for any electric vehicle. It varies depending on driving style, road slope, wind speed and direction, air temperature, tire type, and how often you turn on the air conditioner or heater. Based on my own experience, average consumption in urban areas is 11-12kW in summer and 16-18kW in winter. On intercity roads, values ​​between 15 and 20kW are possible, again depending on your speed.
  • While this range may vary depending on battery charge, if you're driving at 80% capacity like I am, you can get around 300 km in the city and around 250 km on the highway. I drive a bit briskly. Higher ranges can easily be achieved with more sedate driving. Of course, due to the cold winter weather and the effects of air conditioning and battery cooling in the summer, consumption rates can sometimes increase by as much as 4-5 kW compared to spring. 
  • This vehicle, which has a battery voltage of 460V, charges with a voltage of around 520-540V during charging, the importance of which I will explain in detail below.
  • I was able to reach speeds of up to 195 km/h with the Ioniq 6. Unfortunately, there's no speed beyond that. It's limited. 


Now let's get to the questions: 

What is AC/DC Charging?

            As you know, our cars have a battery...or even two. The first is the high-energy battery connected to the vehicle's engine, and the other is the 12V battery. These batteries can store DC (direct current). The 12V battery is constantly being charged at the back of the vehicle whenever the vehicle's charge is above 20%. So, I won't go into detail on that.

            There are two basic ways to charge the main battery. 

            The first is an AC charger, and the second is a DC charging station, which you'll find at charging stations. A DC charging station converts the voltage from the grid to DC and charges the battery at higher speeds, while AC chargers, either supplied with the car or purchased later, convert AC voltage back to DC, which the battery can store using an "adapter" inside your car. 

        

2. Why do AC charging adapters have different power levels?

        
     Contrary to popular belief, AC chargers aren't actually charging stations. These devices communicate with the vehicle by activating switches or relays on the device, allowing your vehicle to charge using electricity from the mains via its internal adapter. In short, they're a type of smart plug. Essentially, they're devices that can be easily built with an ESP32, a switch, and a charging cable.

So, what are the factors that determine charging power?

  1. The type of cable between the vehicle and the charging station : The thinner the cable, the lower the cost. Therefore, high-power chargers (11-22 kW) are more expensive. A resistor inside the cable tells the vehicle the maximum power it can draw.

  2. Commutator/Switch Capacity in the Charging Station : The more powerful the component, the higher the cost. So, quality and power are directly related to price.

  3. Network connection :

    • If your charger is connected to a standard home outlet, you can draw a maximum of 3.5 kW of power with 220V and a 16A fuse. (Calculation: 220V × 16A = 3.5 kW)
    • If your infrastructure supports it and you set your charger to 32A, this value can go up to approximately 7 kW .

With a three-phase connection, things are a little different. Simply put, three-phase charging is like drawing power from three different outlets simultaneously:

  • If you set your charger to 10A , you will get 6.6 kW of power when plugged into a three-phase outlet . (Calculation: 220V × 3 × 10A = 6.6 kW)
  • Setting it to 16A increases this value to 11kW . This means that some vehicles, such as the Ioniq series, reach their maximum AC charging capacity.
  • A 22 kW charger won't shorten your charging time if your car supports 11 kW. However, it might be useful if you buy a 22 kW vehicle in the future.

Summary

There are two basic options for AC chargers:Single-phase and three-phase charging.

  • If your infrastructure is suitable for single-phase charging, you can get a maximum of 7 kW of power.
  • In three-phase charging , you can get a maximum power of 11 kW for the Ioniq series and up to 22 kW for some other vehicles (such as Togg, Renault Zoe, Opel Corsa-e) .

In conclusion, you have two options when choosing your charger:

  1. You can charge your car from a standard outlet in about 16-18 hours using the standard charger that comes with your car .
  2. By purchasing a higher capacity charger (single-phase or three-phase), you can complete the charging process in 3-5 hours .
  3. The numbers above are for the 0-100% range, but for daily use, charging from 20% to 80% takes 5-6 hours with 6kW of power. So, based on my one-year experience, a charging speed of around 6kW is more than enough. Similarly, charging from a standard 3.5kW outlet takes 9 hours to charge from 20% to 80%, which is still sufficient for standard use. Simply plug it in at night and take it out in the morning. 

Therefore, you should choose a charging solution that suits your needs and the power your vehicle supports.


           

3. Should I buy a wall charger or a mobile charger?


This depends on personal needs. I chose a mobile charger because I wanted to have my charger with me when I drive to a summer house, to my parents' house, etc. With the mobile charger's adapter, I can plug it into a 220V outlet when needed, or I can plug it directly into a three-phase outlet at home.
But someone without such needs can get a wall charger to keep things tidy.
Some of us may even prefer to use the charger provided with the vehicle without purchasing one.
Single-phase to three-phase adapter
Single-phase to Three-phase Adapter

When you use such an adapter, even though your device is 11kW, your power will still be a maximum of 3.5kW since you will be using single-phase electricity.

If you use the blue connector version of this adapter (32 amps) and there is a socket with the appropriate infrastructure, you can also go up to 7kW.

Single-phase 7 kW adapter

           

4. Is it better to charge my car with AC or DC?


 While research suggests that charging with AC at a lower rate prevents further battery wear, the difference isn't significant. It's reported that 10 years of use results in negligible wear and tear   . This might make a difference if you don't plan on selling your car within 8-10 years, but I wouldn't worry too much about it. My preference is AC charging, but the reason is purely emotional.
At least as of this date (December 24), charging from home costs around 2.5 TL per kWh, while charging from a DC station costs around 9-10 TL. However, if you're going to be charging constantly with DC, don't forget to calibrate and balance your battery by charging it to 100% with AC in between.

               

5. What is Regeneration?


Regeneration is the name given to the process of your vehicle slowing down and charging its batteries by using the electric motor as a generator instead of using its brakes and pads to slow down.

               

6. Which Regen mode should I use?


For the Ioniq series, there are 4 levels of regen, namely Level 0, 1, 2, 3, as well as Auto andI-Pedalavailable. 
These levels are adjusted using paddles located behind the steering wheel. These levels work much like the retarder system typically used on buses. In other words, they slow you down a certain amount when you take your foot off the gas. 

Our vehicle can decelerate by regen at a maximum of 0.4 G , which corresponds to a moderate braking level. For example, at this acceleration, if we're traveling at 100 km/h, we can reach 0 km/h in 7.1 seconds, approximately 98 meters. When we decelerate above 0.4 G, we are decelerating with the brake pads. 


Level 0 - Also called sail mode, it allows the car to glide along like a "prophetic gear", as it is not exposed to any friction from the engine.
Level 1 - When you take your foot off the gas, it creates a slight deceleration in the vehicle (like in gas cars) and adds a little charge in the process. 
Level 2 - This amount of recycling and therefore deceleration is greater. Just like diesel cars slowing down when you take your foot off the gas.
Level 3 - Slows down quite severely. Ideal for use when descending steep slopes.
Auto - This mode automatically adjusts these levels, such as braking for you when the car in front slows down or keeping you going at a steady speed down a hill. I generally prefer this mode. To activate it, press and hold the right paddle. When the screen says "auto," you can adjust the intensity with the right and left paddles. 
I-pedalIt uses a single pedal. This means that unless there's an emergency braking situation, simply take your foot off the gas pedal. It slows the vehicle down and stops it. It doesn't stop in other modes. Press and release the left paddle a few times. After Lvl 1-2-3, it will display Max IPedal.

Manual Max Mode (I made up the name)  : This mode is used to slow down to maximum speed when driving in modes other than I-Pedal. If you hold the left paddle behind the steering wheel, your vehicle will brake with regeneration. This way, just like with I-Pedal, the vehicle can slow down to a stop. 

There's really not much difference in direct energy savings between these modes. So, Level 1 offers less fuel economy. Level 3 doesn't mean my battery is completely overflowing. While the total energy return is the same in all modes, these modes also affect your driving style, making you more economical with that style. For example, while I'm not driving at all economically in the I-Pedal mode, someone else might say they drive most economically in it, and they're right. This has nothing to do with technological advancements; it has to do with how much you press the gas pedal. So don't overthink it. Don't waste your enjoyment of your car just because you'll save 5 TL per 100 km. 

*** In all of these modes, when you press the brakes, the car slows down using regen. This means it doesn't use brake pads. However, at very low speeds or during sudden braking, brake pads are used. So, you don't need to constantly try to slow down by manually adjusting Levels 1-3. You can slow down and regen in the same way (or even more sensitively) with the footbrake. 

For those who might object to this information, let me quote an interview with Hyundai America's Senior Director of Product Planning, Director of Advanced Vehicle Technology Planning and Environmental Compliance, and Director of Electric Performance Development. Click on it to access the main article.


Applying the brake pedal in the IONIQ 5, as mentioned, initially activates the regen braking and will switch to the friction brakes when additional stopping power is needed.

“The brake pedal, for us, we call a cooperative brake regen system,” said Miller. "We can only regen up to say 0.4Gs, which is pretty aggressive deceleration already. Beyond that, we would have to apply friction brake to make up more."

So, up to 0.4G of acceleration, the Ioniq only engages regen braking. Above that, friction braking kicks in, they said. 

There's one exception to this. If you press and hold the Auto Hold button for 5 seconds to switch to brake pad cleaning mode, regen isn't used; you'll only slow down with the brake pads. This automatically shuts itself off after a while. And yes, our vehicle has a brake pad cleaning mode. Under normal conditions, brake pads are rarely used, and oxidation can occur on the brake pads over time, necessitating periodic cleaning. 

             

7. So.. Which one is more economical?


Regenerative braking converts kinetic energy into electrical energy during deceleration in electric vehicles, returning it to the battery. Different regeneration modes affect the rate of energy recovery depending on the severity of the deceleration. However, according to the law of conservation of energy, additional energy is expended for acceleration after each deceleration. Therefore, the effectiveness of regenerative braking modes depends on usage style and driving conditions. Unless you use regular brake pads, there won't be a dramatic difference in efficiency between the different regeneration levels. In this case, you can optimize your driving style according to your personal preferences.

Recommended Use Cases

  • Long Distance (Highway): Regeneration level 0 (off) is preferable. This facilitates steady-speed driving and prevents unnecessary deceleration.

  • Hill Descents: Automatic mode dynamically adjusts regeneration according to the slope, ensuring a safe ride.

  • City Driving: One-pedal driving (i-Pedal) or automatic mode is ideal for both comfort and energy recovery in frequent stop-and-go traffic.

Regenerative Braking in Bad Weather Conditions

In slippery conditions like rain, snow, or ice, high regeneration levels can increase the risk of the vehicle skidding. In these situations, lowering the regeneration level, for example, to Level 1 , prevents the wheels from locking up, improving control. Many electric vehicles promote safe driving by automatically lowering the regeneration level to Level 1 when "Snow Mode" is selected.

       

8. How fast does my car charge on DC?


Ioniq 6 and 800V Architecture

Ioniq 6,800V architectureIt's an electric vehicle classified as 800V. However, this doesn't mean its battery is fully 800V. In reality, the battery's charging voltage is around 530-540V. However, because this value is above 400V, the vehicle is classified as 800V architecture. (The Ioniq 6 4x4 model can reach up to 770V.) 

Advantages of 800V Architecture

The main advantage of the 800V architecture is that it provides higher charging power, reducing charging time. DC fast charging stations typically transfer electricity at a constant current (amperage). For example, consider a 350 kW charging station and assume the grid voltage is sufficient.

In the calculations, let's take into account the power and current supplied by the station:

  • 350 kW power divided by 530V battery voltage: 350 kW ÷ 530V ≈ 660A (total current).

  • Considering the losses within the station, up to approximately 300A of current can be supplied per vehicle. However, if we perform our calculations for 200A:

Comparison of 400V and 800V Architectures

If a vehicle with 400V architecture is connected to the same charging station:

  • 400V × 200A = 80 kW charging power is obtained.

But with the same current as the 530V architecture of the Ioniq 6:

  • 530V × 200A = 106 kW charging power is provided.

These calculations are based on rounded values. If there are no other vehicles at the charging station, the Ioniq 6 can practically reach a charging power of up to 165-170 kW.

Conclusion

A vehicle with an 800V architecture achieves higher charging power at the same current. This translates to shorter charging times, especially on longer journeys, saving drivers time.


 Note: Since Tesla SCs are 400V chargers, our vehicle performs voltage cycling internally to adjust the charging voltage and therefore cannot exceed 100-110kW. 

9. What should I do in cold weather? Charging speed slows down a lot.


The ideal charging temperature for the batteries used in our vehicles is approximately 20-30°C . When this temperature range is exceeded, the vehicle automatically reduces the charging rate to protect battery health .

  • In hot weather , the vehicle keeps the battery at optimum temperature by activating the cooling system with fans .
  • In cold weather , "battery conditioning" is necessary to ensure that the battery reaches its ideal charging performance .

How Does Battery Conditioning Work?

Battery conditioning prevents the charging speed drop experienced at low temperatures by bringing the battery to the ideal temperature . However, this process cannot be initiated manually and can only be activated automatically by navigating to a DC charging station via the vehicle's navigation system .

Enabling Battery Conditioning

For battery conditioning to work, you must first ensure that it is activated in the vehicle settings :
📌 Go to Settings > EV Settings and make sure that "Battery Conditioning Mode" is selected .

In this way, when going to fast charging stations in winter, the vehicle can maintain maximum charging speed by bringing its battery to the ideal temperature .




The second thing to do is to select the station where we aim to charge or a place near it as the destination  from the vehicle's navigation menu .


 Our vehicle initiates battery warming approximately 10-15 km before reaching the destination, depending on battery temperature and travel time . However, if the air temperature is very low, this distance may be longer. For example, on a journey where the air temperature is 4°C, the battery warming process may begin at a distance of 40 km.

For this reason, it would be useful to add the destination charging station to the navigation at the beginning of the journey , if possible, before reaching the charging station on a long journey .

Things to Consider for Correct Battery Conditioning

✅ The charging station selected must be a DC (fast charging) station.
✅ A station with a power of 50 kW or higher should be preferred.
✅ The destination entered in navigation must be at or near the station where you actually want to charge your battery.

A few minutes after these conditions are met, a resistance (heating) symbol will appear above the battery icon on the vehicle dashboard . This indicates that the battery heating process has begun and prevents the charging rate from slowing down, ensuring optimal battery charging. 



If the battery capacity drops below 20%, conditioning is disabled. This conditioning process will consume an additional 3-4 kW of power. If your vehicle has been driven on long journeys and cycles, the battery may have already reached sufficient temperature. In this case, the warm-up process will not be activated, or a short warm-up will suffice for the last few kilometers.

I have shared what needs to be done in the video below.

           

Opening the Conditioning Setting
 
                                    
                                         Charging Station Selection

  



Battery conditioning can only be activated in cold winter weather. Because it automatically shuts down when the battery temperature reaches a certain temperature (and consumes additional power for heating), it must be activated manually. In summer, however, there's no need for battery conditioning. When the battery needs cooling, the vehicle will open the front flaps (as you may have observed during charging) and use fans to cool the battery to the appropriate charging temperature. Of course, in summer, if the battery gets too hot, the vehicle will reduce the charging speed accordingly, achieving a balanced charging process. But as mentioned above, there's no need for the user to perform any conditioning-type procedures. It's completely automatic. 

10. What is the healthiest percentage to charge my vehicle?


When choosing the type of battery used in our vehicles, it's crucial to avoid keeping it at 100% for extended periods and avoiding dropping below 10% unless absolutely necessary. Especially avoid dropping below 0% unless in extreme circumstances. There are studies suggesting that a 0% charge still leaves enough charge for a 10-30 km drive, but don't rely too heavily on this. 

Charging it to 100% once a month and quickly using it up to 80-90% is healthy for battery calibration, but for daily use, it's best to keep it between 20-80%. But that doesn't mean we shouldn't charge it every evening when we get home. No, there's no harm in that. So, for example, if you're dropping to 60% daily, you can safely charge it daily.

In summary, there's no problem with charging your vehicle to 100%. However, it's recommended not to leave the battery at 100%, especially in hot weather. Therefore, if you're not planning on doing long drives, especially in the summer, be careful not to exceed 80% during your daily driving. 

           

11. Do I need to use EV-style tires? Is it okay to use any tire?


Our vehicles weigh approximately 2 tons. They produce high torque. So-called EV-type tires generally have reinforced sidewalls, foam-filled interiors for sound insulation, and low rolling resistance for fuel economy. 
Leaving aside the foam part, there's no harm in using tires designed for SUVs. For example, I use a Continental TS870P XL version of my winter tires. The XL designation here emphasizes that it's for heavy-duty vehicles. The rest are standard tires. I haven't noticed any difference in noise. The handling is also excellent. Of course, due to the grip-focused tread structure of winter tires, I lose about 5% of the range. But compared to the loss caused by cold weather, it's negligible. 

In summary, whether you're choosing summer or winter tires, EV tires can provide additional comfort and savings. However, there's no harm in using any tire designed for SUVs that can handle speed limits.

I also replaced the Nexens that came with the car for the summer, which were unfortunately very bad, with the Continental PremiumContact 7. The EcoContact model offers a slightly lower coefficient of friction, which means savings, but since my priority is roadholding, I chose this one. 

       

12. Disclosures Regarding Software Updates.


There are two types of software updates available for our vehicles. The first addresses the vehicle's running gear, such as engine/safety measures, battery control, and more. The latest update included an update to the ICCU (Battery Charging System). Only service centers can perform these updates. They can also check for updates. Occasionally, when a new update becomes available, they'll call you to the service center to perform the update. 

The second update, labeled "Navigation," actually involves updating your vehicle's infotainment system—most functions you control from the center console (navigation, climate control, radio, cameras, etc.)—and is the user's responsibility.  Service centers aren't required to perform this update. Some perform it for customer satisfaction, but all the user needs is a computer with internet access and a USB port. 

You can check whether the vehicle is up to date from the version section on the vehicle screen. 
To do this, from the main screen,
Settings -> General -> System Information
If there is a code starting with 2310 or  2408 in the version number, it means that your vehicle is not currently on the latest known version. 

You can update the software on your computer from the official Hyundai website and follow the steps yourself. This page explains every step, from installation to installation, with pictures, so I won't go into detail. Anyone who can log in to Facebook on a computer will be able to do this easily. Don't be intimidated.

For example, the version numbers seen in the picture are the old version from the 10th month of 2023.




It is a good idea to do this because the software released in March 2025 includes a new update for our vehicles.
After this update, you start with the version mentioned above, 2502 , and you are upgraded to the most current version.  
A new update, code 250604, was released in September 2025. I recommend installing this update, which includes improvements to both the map and vehicle Bluetooth, as well as improvements to the navigation system and some changes to the vehicle system.

Whether your vehicle is a 2023, 2024, or 2025 model doesn't really matter. Typically, this type of hardware is mass-produced, standardized software is installed at the factory, and then delivered to the customer. So, don't be surprised if you buy a 2025 model and find 2023 software inside. 


Some users report that the screen turns black and doesn't progress during the update. This happened to me as well. Don't wait. There's a small hole to the right of the climate control buttons. Resetting the screen by inserting something sharp into this hole will restart the update process.



Reset Button


So how long does this process take?

Once you plug in the USB and the update starts, it will first check the files on the disk. This process takes about 15-20 minutes. 
The installation process then begins, during which the device will reboot the screen a few times. This phase takes approximately 20 minutes. During this time, keep your device running or in standby mode. 
After 40-45 minutes, you will see that the update is completed. 

 
If you're still having issues after a few tries, try a different USB device. The update can only be done through the larger USB port in the Wireless Charging area. Type-C devices are not supported.  


            It's important to make a point here: There are three systems that manage charging in our vehicle.


VCMS (Vehicle Charging Management System)
    • It is the system that manages and controls the vehicle charging process.
    • It works to provide the appropriate voltage and current to the battery during AC and DC charging.
    • It ensures a safe and efficient charging process by monitoring parameters such as charge status, battery temperature and cell balance.

  • ICCU (Integrated Charging Control Unit)

    • It is a component used in next-generation electric vehicles on Hyundai's E-GMP platform.
    • Thanks to the V2L (Vehicle-to-Load) feature, it makes it possible to transfer the energy in the battery to external devices (e.g. a laptop, camping equipment or household appliances).
    • It offers a more compact and efficient structure by combining traditional OBC (On-Board Charger) and LDC (Low Voltage DC-DC Converter) systems.
    • It manages both the high-voltage battery and the 12V auxiliary battery during charging.

  • BMS (Battery Management System)

    • It ensures safe and stable operation of the battery by monitoring the voltage, temperature and current levels of the battery cells.
    • It extends battery life by preventing cells from overcharging or overdischarging.
    • It helps the battery stay at optimum temperature by managing the cooling and heating systems.
    • Calculates the remaining capacity (State of Charge - SOC) and health (State of Health - SOH) of the battery.

    •        The service updates regarding our vehicle are as follows;


    ✅ VCS Update (9A1) – September 2023

    This update applies to the 2022-2023 Ioniq 5 and the 2023-2024 Ioniq 6. Key improvements include:

    • Brake light logic update during regenerative braking

    • i-Pedal mode improvement

    • Reducing the DTE (Range Estimation) calculation strategy from 2 weeks to 1 week

    • EPB (Electronic Parking Brake) automatic engagement and automatic deactivation when exiting parking mode

    This update is based on TSB 23-01-067H-1 published by Hyundai. NHTSA

    ✅ VCMS Update (9B5) – July 2024

    This update applies to the 2022-2024 Ioniq 5 and the 2023-2024 Ioniq 6. Its purpose is to prevent damage to the ICCU unit due to slow charging rates and sudden interruptions during AC charging. The update improves the charging management system's software logic, allowing it to return to full capacity once the charge stabilizes. NHTSA

    ✅ ICCU Update (272) – November 2024

    This update applies to the 2022-2024 Ioniq 5 and the 2023-2025 Ioniq 6. It aims to prevent the ICCU from overheating, which can lead to MOSFET failure. The update, based on TSB 24-01-086H, updates the ICCU software, reducing the risk of damage from overvoltage. NHTSA  also announced that this recall aims to increase range by updating the VCU and optimizing acceleration during limp mode (i.e., when the vehicle is faulty or has very low battery levels). 

    13. Why does our range decrease in winter? I thought we had a heat pump.

    First, let's start with what is a heat pump.

  • The heat pump works by taking the heat from the ambient air from units such as the vehicle's engine and battery and transferring it to the interior of the vehicle.
  • The refrigerant is heated by this air, then pressurized by a compressor and the temperature is increased.
  • The hot fluid is directed to the heating system inside the vehicle.
  • This process allows electric vehicles to increase interior temperature by using less battery, thus preserving the battery's charge life.


    • Low temperatures increase electric vehicle consumption for several main reasons :

    🔹 Winter Tires Use
    Winter tires are designed to provide better grip, thus increasing friction . This directly translates to a consumption increase of around 5% .

    🔹 Decrease in Battery Efficiency
    The ideal operating temperature for batteries is around 24°C . At lower temperatures, chemical reactions within the battery operate less efficiently, and usable energy decreases compared to stored energy .

    🔹 Battery Heating System: In cold weather, a heating system operates continuously in the background
    to maintain battery performance . This system attempts to raise the battery temperature not to 20°C as in the charging condition , but to 8-10°C . This creates additional consumption loss .

    🔹 Cabin Heating:
    Although the vehicle uses a heat pump to provide efficient heating, there is still an additional energy consumption of around 1-2 kW . We have an advantage over vehicles without a heat pump, but we are not completely loss-free.

    The Effect of Cold Weather on Real Consumption Changes

    For example, while my daily home-work consumption is normally around 13-14 kWh/100 km , it increased to 18-19 kWh/100 km in Ankara's cold weather .

    Moreover, since my car is parked in a closed garage, I start it in the morning at 14-15°C . If the car had been parked outside, consumption would probably have been even higher.

    This data can give a general idea about the effect of cold weather on electric vehicle consumption . 

         

    14. The charging socket does not separate from the car. What should I do?

    When you press the door unlock button on your vehicle's remote control, the charging port should normally release. However, sometimes, when using heavy-duty charging ports, the latch that locks the port becomes stuck and can't release. In this case, open the trunk, remove the small cover on the right side of the trunk, and pull the socket release lever inside (you may need to pull hard). But before doing so, make sure the charging is complete. If the charging continues, call the charging company and ask them to remotely terminate the charging, but this is generally not necessary. This should stop when you terminate the charging from the app. 



           

    15. When I try to charge the Trugo, it says charging is starting, but after a while the charging stops.

     

    Trugo and a few other companies use very thick and heavy cables. This can strain the locking mechanism or prevent the charging pins from fully engaging, preventing charging from starting. Many of our friends report that they use their hand to press the socket upwards until the charging process is complete, which helps lock it in place, and then charging begins. It's also reported that charging cables and sockets have a lifespan of approximately 10,000 charges. If the cable is old, the risk of encountering these problems is higher. If the method I've outlined above doesn't work, it's best to switch to a different socket.


           

    What apps should I use for my EV?

    First, you'll need to install the software for all the charging stations you'll be charging at. Of course, you don't need to install them all right now. When you go to a new station, downloading and installing the relevant company's app won't take much time. Here's some software tips for charging planning.


    • ABRP : A Better Route Planner: This app, which contains highly up-to-date charging point data, is fully integrated with your vehicle if you have the paid version. It also collects data such as current battery status and average consumption. It then uses information such as road slope and weather conditions to plan where you should charge and the average charging time, allowing you to make detailed trip plans. To integrate live with your vehicle, you need an OBD device. Some OBD models that the company has confirmed work with   are listed here .


    • PlugShare : It updates the charging point lists very quickly, and when you find the station that suits your purpose (AC, DC, Charging capacity, etc.) with the filters on it, it also gives you directions via Google Maps. 
    • Voltla : You could call it the local version of PlugShare. It offers a wide range of charging options, including smaller, local companies. 


    • Charging@tr : This is an interface where all charging stations licensed by the Energy Market Regulatory Authority (EPDK) are added. Unfortunately, it has a very poor interface design. You have trouble selecting stations on the map. It can sometimes fail to establish a data connection and receive information, but it's still useful to have it on your phone for difficult situations.
    • Lixhium: This product is a local product that allows you to find chargers, manage your charging expenses in one place by creating a wallet and paying for all charging stations (for example, at Trugo, you pay with the Trugo app, but your virtual card is the Lix card issued by Lixhium). It also provides small bonuses for subscribers through a loyalty program. It also provides pricing information for all charging stations.
    • Car Scanner: This software allows you to view all vehicle diagnostic data. It allows you to view all kinds of useful and unhelpful information, from battery health and cell-by-cell temperature to the vehicle's current torque, steering angle, coolant temperature, and braking intensity. Of course, we use this software by connecting it to our vehicle via an OBD device like ABRP. If you're curious about these technical details, or if you're buying a used EV, get this software with an OBD adapter. You can inspect your own car or perform a detailed battery-by-cell analysis of the vehicle you're considering. 

               

    17. Can I warm up/cool down my car remotely?


    In TürkiyeBluelinkBecause there's no remote connection service support , we can't remotely perform functions like battery preheating and interior heating via the app. Furthermore, even if Bluelink arrives in the future, hardware support may not be available for 2023-2024 model year vehicles . Therefore , remote start is only possible via the key (remote) .

    How to Operate Remotely?

    1️⃣ Even if your car's doors are closed , press the lock button first .
    2️⃣ After locking, press and hold the "HOLD" button until the LED on the key illuminates .
    3️⃣ The car will start and the air conditioning will operate according to the last used settings.

    • If the air conditioner is set to blow warm air last, the cabin will begin to warm up.
    • If it is closed to blow cold air, the cabin will begin to cool. 
    • Or by selecting Auto, it can always reach the target temperature. 
    • Depending on the additional equipment and temperature (for progressives), seat and steering wheel heating are also activated at this time. 
      4️⃣ Control range may vary depending on environmental factors .
    •  It can be operated from a distance of 40-50 meters in open areas .
    • Obstacles (glass, walls, metal siding, etc.) may reduce range .

    Remote Parking Feature (Progressive Equipment Only)

    🔹 If you are close to your vehicle (within 5-10 meters), you can move the vehicle forward or backward by pressing the special buttons on the remote control .
    🔹 This feature is useful for exiting tight parking spaces or parking .
    🔹 For safety reasons, it does not work further than 5-10 meters away .

    With this information, you can pre-cool/heat the interior by remotely starting your car in cold weather. 





           

    18. Don't my doors lock automatically when I walk away from the car?

    🔹 When you approach the vehicle , the doors will unlock automatically if you have your keys with you .
    🔹 However, if you do not open the door and walk away , the vehicle will automatically lock again .

    🚨 Things to Pay Attention to:

    • If you open the door , automatic locking is disabled for security reasons .
    • In this case, you must lock the doors manually .
      • You can press the lock button on the remote control.
      • You can also lock the door by touching the sensor on the door handle with your finger.
    • If your vehicle has a sunroof , it cannot be closed via the remote control (for safety reasons).

           

    19. These warnings in the car (fatigue, lane, speed limit, etc.) really bother me. How can we turn them off?


    Due to European Union Vehicle Safety Measures , it is not possible to completely disable some systems.

    1️⃣ Fatigue Detection System

    • This system is constantly active to maintain the driver's attention and cannot be completely turned off .
    • If you violate your lane several times without signaling , the system will activate and give audible and visual warnings .

    2️⃣ Speed ​​Limit Warnings (ISA - Intelligent Speed ​​Assistance)

    • In accordance with European Union safety regulations , speed limit warnings are fitted as standard in vehicles.
    • However , you can follow these steps to mute this alert:
      1. Install the 2408 (or later) series update on your vehicle .
      2. Press and hold the "Mute" button on the steering wheel .
      3. On the screen that opens, select the "Information" option .
      4. This will allow you to mute speed limit warnings (but not disable the warning entirely).






     But when you turn the vehicle off and on again, it will be activated again.

    To turn off lane departure warnings, long-press the lane departure warning button. When the lane departure warning icon at the top turns orange, the lane departure warnings are off. They will reactivate when you turn the vehicle off and back on again.


     Important Note:

    • ISA (Intelligent Speed ​​Assistance) will  be mandatory in all new cars sold in Europe as of July 2022 .
    • Under the European Union's General Vehicle Safety Regulation (GSR) , speed limit warning systems  must work actively , although  audible warnings can be switched off or reduced to a minimum on some models .

               

    20. I got into the car in the morning and it gave me a warning saying that the parking assist/safety measures etc. were disabled. I wonder what was wrong?


    Don't worry, there's nothing wrong with your car! Your car's cameras, especially exterior cameras and the camera on the windshield, can sometimes disable security software.

    If the external cameras become contaminated with dust, mud, or other contaminants, the system disables some functions as a security measure because it can't detect them. Simply wipe the cameras clean, and they'll be back online.

    Additionally, morning fog on the windshield can also be a problem. When it fogs up, the windshield camera may not function properly. When you defrost the windshield, the fog will eventually clear and the system will be active again.

    In short, some functions are shutting down simply because the cameras are temporarily unable to receive a view. A little cleaning or defrosting should fix the problem.


               

    21. Let's say I bought an OBD device. Is there any harm in leaving it connected to the vehicle all the time?


    In fact, this situation should be evaluated from two perspectives. 
    The first is battery life. How much battery does this device consume? This device runs on our Ioniq's 12V battery. And the Ioniq6 has a 60Ah battery. When I read the information about the Vgate Vlinker MC+ BT4 OBD adapter I use, it says it draws 50mA current while operating and 3mA in sleep mode (it goes to sleep 30 minutes after the vehicle is turned off). Assuming the device isn't sleeping, it would take 1200 hours of uncharged battery life to fully discharge a 60Ah battery. So, if you're going on a 1-2 month international trip and won't leave your vehicle unattended, it's unlikely to drain the battery.

    The second is a security measure. While our vehicle doesn't support functions like unlocking/starting via Canbus, we're relatively safe, but it's still beneficial to use a device with physical security. To access the device I mentioned above, you first need to hold down a physical button on it. Only then does it register to your phone. This could be considered an additional security measure. Unfortunately, cheaper devices don't have this feature, so I can't recommend it. 

    There's also a problem with the OBD connector, where the cover doesn't close when the adapter is plugged in. The solution is to unclip the OBD connector in your vehicle, slide it backwards, and connect the adapter this way.

        
            


               

    22. I'm leaving my car behind for weeks. What precautions should I take?


    Hyundai recommends leaving your car charged between 50-60% when not in use for extended periods. This is the ideal level for long-term battery storage. A Reddit user shared that they left their Ioniq 5 at 64%, returned eight weeks later, and it had dropped to 60% without any problems.

    Another option, if you have a garage, is to leave your car plugged in and set the charge limit to 60%, which will help preserve the battery if the car is parked for extended periods.

    Of course, if it is not going to be used for a few years (for example, if you are going to be imprisoned for a long time or if you are going to serve military service), it may be a more practical solution to have one of your friends charge your car from time to time instead of such measures.



           

    23. How do I apply the parking brake? Those who say, "I first apply the brake, then put the car in park, then stop the car"?


    Yes, our vehicles don't have a transmission or gearbox, so a traditional parking brake isn't necessary. The vehicle's intelligent system parks the vehicle and shuts off the engine in the correct sequence, whether you press the park button or turn off the engine and stop the vehicle.

    So, if you're wondering what that strange parking brake button on the left side of the steering wheel is for, any seasoned driver already knows this: Using the parking brake isn't ideal, especially in cold weather or when the brake system is wet. This is because brake pads can freeze and stick to the discs in extreme cold. To prevent this, use this button to park the car on a level surface and then release the parking brake to avoid having trouble starting the car in the morning.



           

    24. Those who want their car to start charging after 10 pm and still be warm when they get in the morning, come here..


    As you know, some of us use multi-time plans. This makes it expensive to charge our cars at home before 10 p.m., but cheaper to do so after. So, I came home, parked the car in the garage, went back inside, put on my pajamas, and you're probably wondering, "Should I leave my warm house at 10 a.m. and go to charge the car?" No, there's no need.
    You can set a time for the car to start charging. You can even set that time if you're leaving for work the next day, say at 8 a.m. The car will be waiting for you at 8 a.m., preheated (or cooled, depending on the season). So how?
    It is explained very well on the Hyundai video channel..


    If you're wondering what to do after making these settings and needing to charge during the day, you can override this setting by pressing the charging start button on the power socket.




           

    25. What are the driving modes in my car and what are their differences?


    The Ioniq series has 5 driving modes called ECO, Normal, Sport, Snow and My Drive.

    ECO mode , as its name suggests, provides a more economical driving experience. The vehicle's throttle response is reduced, preventing high power consumption caused by excessive pressure on the accelerator, especially in urban driving. It also saves energy by reducing the performance of the air conditioning system.

    NORMAL Mode : This is the standard driving mode with vehicle responses.

    Sport Mode : Throttle and brake response are more sporty. While fuel consumption may be slightly higher, it's a fun mode where you can enjoy the vehicle's full performance.

    Snow Mode : Reduces the regeneration level to 1. This prevents hydroplaning and also eliminates the risk of skidding by preventing sudden torque transfers. 

    My Drive : This mode allows you to customize all the changes listed above. You can adjust all the parameters, such as more responsive throttle response and smoother braking, to suit your driving preferences.

    You can switch between these modes by pressing the Mode button on the steering wheel. However, pressing this button alone only allows you to switch between eco, normal, and sport modes.



    When you press the button for a long time, you can switch to snow or my drive modes, depending on the selection you make in the settings menu.

    What I can recommend is to set this option to snow in the winter and to my drive in the summer.

    So, if you ask what the differences are in terms of range,
    According to the on-board computer, when I checked last night, the range was 269 km in eco mode, 261 km in normal mode and 253 km in sport mode.
    It will be your choice whether to compromise on performance for such a range increase (3% between eco and normal).


               

    26. Can I use the charger provided with the vehicle from my home socket without any problem?


    If your house is new and/or the plumbing is done according to the regulations, you will not have any problems.

    The charger supplied with the car has a power of 12Amps and 2.4 kW. 

    The clothes dryers you use in your home have an average power of 2.5kW.
    Electric heaters/electric stoves with 2-3 kW power
    Electric water heaters have power between 3-6 kW.
    Electric ovens with a power of 3-4 kW
    Again, air conditioners, freezers, water heaters, etc. have similar power levels. In fact, the charger supplied with the car is not that powerful. In fact, it's lower than some of them.

    Still, to be sure, have an electrician check it; provided that the socket you will connect the car to has a separate fuse (or that there is no shared fuse with another high-power device), the cables going to the socket are at least 2.5 mm2, the junction box connections are good (preferably with terminals), and the socket you will connect the adapter to is a quality brand, you can charge your car without any problems. 

    Fires in electrical installations often start from loose connections. For example, not fully tightening the screws on junction boxes, outlets, or fuses can cause high temperatures. 

    This risk is much lower, as heating/melting the cables will quickly short-circuit and blow the fuse. So, check all of these screws carefully. 

    In fact, all outlets in the house should meet these requirements, but it's still worth checking them. Older homes, in particular, are likely to have rotten or weakened insulation due to years of moisture, or to have thin, unregulated wiring. I recommend performing these checks in homes set in villages or vineyards.

    Generally, this device won't work in any outlet. However, if you're charging it in an unfamiliar outlet that you can't control, you can be completely safe by reducing the power to a lower voltage, like 10-8A instead of 12A, and sacrificing some charging time.

    If you're getting a lower charging speed than you'd expect from the charger you've connected to your vehicle, check the current setting in your vehicle's charging settings. If it's around 60%-80%, set it to 100%.


               

    27. I want to use wireless carplay or android auto but it can only be connected via cable.


    Unfortunately, our car doesn't support wireless connectivity. There are inexpensive wireless CarPlay converters available online to enable this. Additionally, more advanced Android modules allow for the display of not only certain apps but also video-style images. I can't offer product recommendations to those who request them because I use a wired connection. It's not my custom to write about things I don't use based on hearsay. 

    If you're wondering why my phone isn't playing video even when connected via cable, Android Auto and Carplay normally block distracting video playback for safe driving. However, Chinese manufacturers reactivate video streaming by "breaking" necessary parts of the software. That's why you can watch it on these devices. 
    You can also turn on this feature in Android Auto on your phone with some methods you can find on the internet on Android 14 and below phones.

               

    28. I don't quite understand this AC charging thing. There's 11kW and 22kW... The cable is different, the device is different...


    First, let's agree on this: Our vehicles are charged with AC at a maximum speed of 11 kW (the average effective charge is around 10.6-10.7 kW). 
    And let's be clear: the AC chargers you use at home or outside are not actually chargers, they're just smart cables.

    So, the whole thing happens inside our vehicle. We plug the cable into our vehicle. First, the "cable" tells our vehicle, via a resistor connected to the control pins, "I'm a 22 kW cable... or an 11 kW cable... or a much weaker 5 kW cable." Based on this, our vehicle first learns how much power it can transmit through this cable. And it doesn't exceed that capacity.
    So, when you plug a 5 kW cable into a 22 kW charger, the limiting factor here is the cable itself. This part is in your pocket.

    Second, the cable is plugged in, and the vehicle learns that the cable is rated for, say, 22 kW. Then, the second-stage charger tells the vehicle, "I'm a 22 kW charger..." (Or 11 kW). This is also in the pocket.

    Then comes the third stage.. You set the maximum percentage and kW of your vehicle's battery to charge..

    Now let's assume that this setting is 50% in our vehicle.
    If we connect the device to an 11 kW charger, our car will charge at 5.5 kW. Here, our car tells the charger to send 50% capacity. The device then transmits its PWM signal at half power, 5.5 kW. Our car begins charging at this power level. The same mechanism occurs when you reduce the power from your home charger. The charger tells our car not to draw more than 10 A. 

    So, if we connect it to a 22 kW device... This time, this charger says it will send half capacity, but it actually sends 11 kW. So, the answer to some friends' question, "Why am I charging at 80% but still charging at 11 kW?" is here.

    Okay, everything is set to 11kW, I plugged my car in to charge. But I see 9-10 kW.

    There are three factors at this point. Either the vehicle starts a little slower to prepare your battery for a full charge and then accelerates, or one of the other two factors comes into play.

    Our second reason is the transformer voltage. As I mentioned in the previous question, these devices connect your vehicle directly to three-phase voltage, while the charger is your car itself. If the transformer voltage is low, your charging speed will also decrease. So, if the phase voltage is 230V and the system delivers 16A of current (which it is), assuming there are three phases, 230x16x3 = 11kW . This is the maximum you'll see. I haven't even factored in the potential losses during the AC/DC conversion in the vehicle, but with these losses, you'll get an average of around 10.7-10.8kW.
    If our voltage drops to 220, 220x16x3= 10.5 kW. As you can see, if the voltage drops, your charge amount also decreases.
    Transformer outputs fluctuate significantly throughout the day. Let me show you the 24-hour voltage change in my own home. As you can see from the graph, the voltage fluctuated between 217 and 233 in 24 hours. 



    Now, we come to the third reason... What else drops the voltage? Your cable. If you have poor quality or thin cable, or poor quality connectors, you'll still experience a voltage drop. As you can see in the calculation above, even a 5-10V drop at such high power levels can have an impact.

    Of course, if you're wondering how much of a difference this drop makes, when you charge at 30 kW, your charge will take 163 minutes with 10.5 kW and 171 minutes with 11 kW. A total of 8 minutes. 

    It was a pretty long answer and it contains a lot of math. Here is a summary for those who are bored:
    If your AC charging speed is low, 1- Your vehicle is balancing the charge for battery/ICCU protection. 2- The transformer voltage of the charger you are connected to is low, 3- Your cable is bad and that charge is not 4- As I mentioned in a previous article, the AC charging speed limitation in your vehicle is on. Set it to 100%, it is limiting.


           

    29. How fast should you go on a long road?

    Electric vehicles are not well-suited for long-distance travel at high speeds . This is primarily due to increased energy consumption and loss of range . While the transmission system in internal combustion vehicles addresses the increased fuel consumption as speed increases, electric vehicles generally do not use gears, so their fuel consumption increases at high speeds more than in internal combustion vehicles. 

    The Ioniq 6 has a highly aerodynamic structure, with a Cd (coefficient of drag) of 0.22 . However, as the vehicle accelerates, the air resistance (aerodynamic drag) it encounters increases exponentially, and energy consumption rises rapidly.

    The graph and table below calculate the power required solely due to air friction generated by the vehicle's speed . Factors such as tire friction, external wind effects, temperature changes, and battery efficiency are not taken into account.

    According to this data, energy consumption increases exponentially as speed increases . The graphs below are calculated by adding only wind resistance  for a distance of 100 km , based on speed.








    For example, if you travel at 110 km/h at 150 km/h, your consumption will be approximately 6.6 kWh more due to aerodynamic drag alone:

    • Consumption at 110 km/h: 7.69 kWh / 100 km

    • Consumption at 150 km/h: 14.30 kWh / 100 km

    • Difference: 14.30 − 7.69 = 6.61 kWh additional consumption

    Of course, these values ​​may not be exactly valid on sloped roads . For example:

    • You can take advantage of gravity by accelerating down the ramp,
    • You can be less affected by air friction by slowing down when going uphill.

    Although these calculations will not be exactly the same as in real road conditions, they give a general idea to understand the effect of speed on consumption . 

           

    30. How should you wait if you are going to sit in the vehicle for a long time?


    When you need to sit in your vehicle for extended periods, you have three different options. Each mode has its own advantages and disadvantages.

       Auxiliary Mode – Not Recommended

    This mode runs the vehicle's electrical system via the 12V battery. Therefore, prolonged use may cause the battery to drain.

    How to Open?

    • Turn the vehicle off completely with the START/STOP button.
    • Then press the START button again without pressing the brake .

    In this mode:

    • The vehicle displays an "Auxiliary Battery Discharge Warning" warning on the instrument panel.
    • The audio system, interior lights and other electronic equipment only work with a 12V battery.
    • Due to high energy consumption, there is a risk of the battery running out quickly.

    Therefore, it is not recommended to use this mode for long waits.

       Parking Mode – For Short Waits

    This mode allows you to wait by keeping the vehicle running, but it has some risks.

    How to Open?

    • While the vehicle is running, shift the gear to "P" (Park) .

    In this mode:

    • The vehicle is powered by the traction battery , so the electrical systems operate without interruption.
    • Since the vehicle remains running, there is a risk of accidentally changing gear and causing the vehicle to move (this can be dangerous, especially for children).
    • Air conditioning and other systems may remain active , but the vehicle may automatically shut itself off after a certain period of time (1-2 hours).

    Therefore, it can be used for short waits but not for long waits.

       Utility Mode (Pause Mode) – The Most Suitable Option

    This mode disables the vehicle's engine system while allowing the electronic equipment to be powered by the battery.

    How to Open?

    • From the home screen → "Vehicle Settings" (EV Settings) → "EV Modes" (EV Mode) → "Utility ModeActivate the " (Pause Mode) option by entering it.

    For faster access:

    • By going to "Settings" → "Favorite Key Assignment" , you can assign "Pause Mode" to the star key (★) on the center console.
    • This way, you can quickly switch to Utility Mode with a single click.

    In this mode:

    • The vehicle shuts down its engines , but all electronic systems continue to function.
    • The tool will not turn itself off (it will stay on until you turn it off manually).
    • Gear shifting is disabled , thus eliminating the risk of accidentally moving the vehicle.
    • Since the air conditioning and multimedia systems are powered by the traction battery, there is no load on the 12V battery .

    To exit this mode:

    • Simply turn off the vehicle completely with the START/STOP button and start it again.


         

    31. When the vehicle first moves, there is a clunking sound from the rear.

            The response to this complaint is usually along the lines of the sound of door handles closing, but... The two are not the same. 

           Since we use our brake pads very little, there is a situation where pad dust accumulates there and unused discs stick together due to rust.

    So, the solution? First, once in a while (for example, once a week) press and hold the auto hold button on the center console for a few seconds.brake cleaning modeTurn it on and use it for a while by setting the vehicle to Lvl 0 regen mode. This will allow you to use brake pads instead of regen and will clean off dust and rust.
    It shuts itself off after a while. Since regen isn't working during this time, your average consumption may increase slightly.  

    Secondly, if you park your car after washing it or with wet brake pads and discs, especially in winter, I recommend disengaging the parking brake from the panel located at the bottom left of the steering wheel after parking. This will prevent any potential sticking or freezing. 

    We've had people break their brake pads at advanced levels of adhesion. That's why it's important to pay attention to these issues.


    32. About Tire Pressure.

    The recommended tire pressures for our cars—or rather, all cars—are listed either on a sticker inside the door or on the fuel filler cap. It doesn't have to be an ioniq, but I recommend using this information when adjusting your car's tire pressures.

    The recommended tire pressure for our vehicles is 36 psi. A low tire pressure warning will occur when it drops below 32. Unfortunately, since most gas station pumps aren't calibrated, setting the pressure to 36 will likely result in a pressure of around 33-34 psi, and the warning will remain. Unlike some other brands, there's no manual pressure reset. To clear the warning, you'll need to have a tire pressure above 36 psi (e.g., 38 psi) and drive for a while. To do this, I recommend setting the pump at the gas station to 40 psi, inflating your tires (while they're cold—at most 1-2 km), and driving for a drive. After a while, the tire pressure warning will disappear. 

    Tire pressures fluctuate with temperature. For every 7 degrees Celsius, there will be a 1 psi change. For example, if you set your pressure to 36 psi on a day when the temperature is 18-20 degrees Celsius, the pressure could drop to 33 on a cold night, which is normal. Or, if the temperature is above 30 degrees Celsius, it could rise to around 40. 

    While high pressure can reduce vehicle comfort and make you feel bumps, using low pressure can cause the tire to split in potholes. Therefore, it's best to keep the pressure around 36. 

    33. Chronic Problems

    • Horn Malfunction: I think one of the most common problems is the horn. Because the horns are positioned downward, they can easily become damaged due to water ingress during rainy weather or when driving through puddles. Damaged horns are replaced under warranty, but sometimes they're out of stock, requiring a wait of several weeks. There are reviews that suggest that newly installed horns are free of this problem.
    • A creaking sound coming from the sunroof: I've read about users experiencing this problem in various groups. It didn't happen to me. There are reports that the service center fixed the problem by adding some support pieces to the space under the sunroof.
    • Spoiler/Headlight Moisture Buildup: By design, there are ventilation channels on the spoiler. Humid air entering through these channels, especially after a car wash or rainy weather, creates some fog. These parts are replaced during service visits, but I believe this is normal behavior due to the design. This fog/moisture disappears after a period of exposure to sunlight.
    • ICCU malfunction: As mentioned above, the ICCU is the unit that handles everything from powering the vehicle's high-power battery to powering the 12V systems and charging the 12V battery. However, this device can malfunction due to faulty design. This problem is often reported, particularly with 12V battery charging. To prevent this, Hyundai has released two software updates to adjust the 12V battery charging curve and prevent the MOSFETs within the ICCU from overloading. While this has worked to some extent, we continue to hear reports of ICCU malfunctions from time to time. In the event of a malfunction, the ICCU is replaced, resolving the issue.  
    • Vuvuzellas :)   Yes... Sometimes, after speeds of 130-140 km/h, depending on the wind direction, the vehicle starts to make a vuvuzella-like sound. It doesn't happen all the time, but when you first hear it, you're left wondering what's going on. There's no solution yet. Fortunately, it doesn't happen all the time. 
    • Gaps under the headlights: Some cars have gaps between the bumper and the headlights. If you don't mind, it's not a problem. Those who do have issues can have the bumper removed/reinstalled and fixed at the dealership. 

    34. What is a Heat Pump?

    Heat pumps can be summarized as systems that recover the energy lost in heated parts of vehicles and utilize it in heating the vehicle. 
    In other words, they are systems that recover the residual heat generated by the engine, battery, and electronic systems during driving, rather than losing it as heat energy, and utilize it for vehicle heating/cooling. Because electric cars don't involve combustion like internal combustion vehicles, heating is generally accomplished through resistors. This translates to high energy consumption. A heat pump, used to recover some of this or make it more efficient, utilizes the heat generated by the vehicle's various heat-producing components, as mentioned above, thus saving on resistor usage. 

    Although it does not make a visible difference in short distances in winter because the parts in the vehicle will not be heated sufficiently, it shows its benefit in long distances and provides an improvement of around 10-20% depending on the situation. 


    35. Some Shortcuts:

    Wiper Replacement Mode: Under normal circumstances, our car's wipers don't lift up; they're hidden under the hood. This prevents access during car washes or wiper replacements.
    If you pull the wiper lever down immediately after turning off the vehicle (pressing the start button), the wipers will go into service mode and rise halfway. 

    Car Wash Mode: When you approach your car while washing it, unlocking the door handles with your keys in your pocket can sometimes be a nuisance. To prevent this, hold down the door unlock/lock buttons on the key fob for 4-5 seconds while the car is locked, and the car will unlock the doors. The mode will then reactivate when you open the doors normally.

    If you lock the car with a heavy item in the back seat, you may hear an alarm/warning. 
    To prevent this 

    1. From the main screen, enter the Settings menu.

    2. Switch to the Vehicle tab.

    3. Open the Security menu.

    4. Locate the Rear Seat Occupant Alert option.

    5. There are 2 modes here:

      • On (Always On / Always active)

      • Just a reminder (Simple Alert)

      • Off (Disabled)

    6. Check the Off option.

    zaman:

    Hiç yorum yok:

    Yorum Gönder

    Kaydol: Kayıt Yorumları (Atom)

    Türkiye'nin ilk 10 GHz Uluslararası QSO'su.

     Herkese selamlar, TA2SUA Alper arkadaşım ve ben bir süredir bu üst magic band çalışmalarımızı bildiğiniz gibi sürdürüyoruz. (Dİğer çalışmal...